Friday, March 10, 2023

Bicycle repair manual free download. Barnett's Bicycle Repair Manual - eSense

Looking for:

Bicycle repair manual free download -  













































     


Bicycle repair manual free download.Bicycle Manuals and User Guides



  Bicycle Repair Manual, 6th Edition. Pages·· MB·9, Downloads·New! In a handy flexibound format, this ultimate visual reference guide for. These maintenance after a time and will features detail what you need to do certainly enjoy the trouble-free and refer you to the relevant step-by- cycling.    

 

Bicycle repair manual free download -



   

Digital publication enables us to publish new editions that correspond to every new equipment model year, whereas the discontinued print version could only be updated about once every three to four years.

But frequency of publishing new editions is not the only advantage of digital publication over print publication. In the print format, page count directly affects price. The digital version contains over 14, pages and over 17, hi-res color photos! Just this page-count difference would increase the cost ten fold over the last print version, and the use of color photos instead of line drawings would increase the price by yet another substantial factor.

Not everyone has access to a computer at his or her workbench, so DX features multiple functionality. You can use it on screen directly at your workbench, or you can generate printed worksheets from your computer elsewhere, then use the worksheets at your bench to guide you through the repair. Additionally, DX includes the last print version of Barnett's Manual the 5th edition as a PDF file that you can print yourself or have printed at a photocopy store so you can have the convenience and familiarity of a regular print manual NOTE: Technologies introduced after are not included in the print-version 5th Edition.

Every little detail the novice needs, all the advanced information the experienced mechanic wants, and comprehensive coverage of all parts of the bike and all technologies are just some of the features that make this manual the bicycle tool you can't do without.

Barnett's Manual DX takes the mystery out of every procedure by putting the emphasis on detail, logic, and measurement. Community Playthings RTotstar. Continental Refrigerator 36V eBike System. Coolproducts Rennrad. Coolproducts Bicycle Rennrad Owner's manual 72 pages. Cosmic Universal Kids Bike. Country Kids MH Craftsman Craftsman Bicycle Creme Bicycle Caferacer Manual and warranty 18 pages.

Critical Cycles Bicycle city Owner's manual 34 pages. Critical Cycles folding. Critical Cycles Bicycle folding Owner's manual 34 pages. Crosswave Elektrobike ED Crosswave Bicycle Elektrobike ED Cube Bicycle Kids Instruction manual 7 pages. Cube Bicycle Kids Bmx Handbook 52 pages. Cube Bicycle Kinder Bmx Handbook 52 pages. Cube Mountain Bike. Cube Bicycle Mountain Bike Assembly manual 16 pages. Currier Tech Bicycle Detour System operation manual 16 pages.

Currier Tech E3 Compact. Currier Tech Ezip Coastline. Currier Tech eZip Skyline. Currier Tech Ezip Trailz. Cyclamatic Power Plus CX1. Cycle Blend Beach Cruiser. CycleOps Pro Series. Cycling Sports Group Bicycle. CycloTricity Electric Bicycles. Cyrusher Bicycle FR Installation instruction 6 pages. Cyrusher Bicycle RD Assembly manual 7 pages.

Cyrusher Richbit Cyrusher Bicycle Richbit Installation manual 10 pages. Cyrusher Richbit Cyrusher Bicycle Richbit Owner's manual 65 pages. DAHON 24 inch series. Daum electronic Comfort. Daum electronic Bicycle Comfort Manual 20 pages. Daum electronic pedelec Series. Daum electronic Bicycle pedelec Series Manual 20 pages. Daum electronic Trekking D. Daum electronic Bicycle Trekking D Manual 20 pages.

Daum electronic Trekking H. Daum electronic Bicycle Trekking H Manual 20 pages. Dawes Cycles Bicycle. Dawes Cycles Bicycle Bicycle Owner's manual 15 pages. Dawes Cycles Bicycle bike Owner's manual 15 pages. Day6 Bicycle Cyclone Owner's manual 15 pages. Day6 Bicycle Dream24 Owner's manual 15 pages. Day6 Bicycle Dream8 Owner's manual 15 pages. Day6 Bicycle Journey Owner's manual 15 pages. Day6 Bicycle Patriot Owner's manual 15 pages. Day6 Bicycle Samson Owner's manual 15 pages.

DC-Tri Commuter 2. DC-Tri Bicycle Commuter 2. Dedacciai Strada flash tt. Dedacciai Strada Bicycle flash tt Owner's manual 20 pages. Denver Bicycle Orus Instructions for use and maintenance manual 6 pages. Denver Orus E Denver Bicycle Orus E Instructions for use and maintenance manual 55 pages.

Denver Bicycle Orus E Instructions for use and maintenance manual 52 pages. Denver Bicycle Orus E Instructions for use and maintenance manual 61 pages. Denver Orus V Denver Bicycle Orus V Instructions for use and maintenance manual 55 pages. Derby cycle Impulse 2. Derby cycle Bicycle Impulse 2. Derby cycle Impulse Evo. Derby cycle Bicycle Impulse Evo Original user manual pages. Derby cycle Impulse Evo Next. Derby cycle Kalkhoff. Detroit Bikes Bicycle.

Detroit Bikes Bicycle Bicycle Owner's manual 24 pages. Diamondback Diamondback Bicycle Diamondback Bicycle Catalogue 68 pages, 7. Diamondback Bicycle Owner's manual 48 pages. Diamondback 7th Edition. Diamondback Bicycle 7th Edition Owner's manual 32 pages, 0. Diamondback Bicycle Bicycle Owner's manual 48 pages. Diamondback BMX Diamondback Single-Speed Bicycle.

Dillenger D6 Hybrid. Dirte Bike Bicycle C Owner's manual 13 pages. Disney Pretty Princess Trike Dolmar Bicycle AB Instruction manual 36 pages. Durabike BKE eazi-rider. Durabike eazi-rider City. Durabike Bicycle eazi-rider City Operating instructions manual 6 pages. Dutch Speed Bicycles KV4. Dynacraft Bicycle Owner's manual 29 pages. Eagle Electric Bikes Jim Beam. E-Bike Bicycle Bofeili Owner's manual 16 pages. E-Bike Bicycle Enviro Owner's manual 45 pages. E-Bike Bicycle Viper Instruction manual 29 pages.

E-bikes Bicycle A1 Owner's manual 14 pages. E-bikes Bicycle A2 Owner's manual 14 pages. E-bikes Bicycle A3 Owner's manual 14 pages. Ecobike Bicycle S3 Manual instruction 21 pages. Ecosmo Bicycle 26CF01 Assembly manual 10 pages.

Ecosmo Bicycle 26SF02 Assembly manual 10 pages. Ecosmo Bicycle 28C03 Assembly manual 10 pages. EcoSpeed Electric Mid-Drive. Ecotric Folding Fat Bike. Edbikes 26" City Bike. Edbikes Bicycle 26" City Bike Owner's manual 15 pages. EG Bicycle Athens Owner's manual 8 pages. EG Bicycle Bali Owner's manual 8 pages. EG Bicycle Maui Owner's manual supplement 8 pages. EG Bicycle Milan Owner's manual supplement 8 pages. EG Bicycle Milan Owner's manual 8 pages. EG Bicycle Oahu Owner's manual supplement 8 pages.

Electra Bicycle Bicycle Owner's manual 31 pages, 3. Electra Townie Series. Electra Bicycle Townie Series Owner's manual 31 pages. Electrik Motion lashout.

Electrik Motion Bicycle lashout Owner's manual 16 pages. Elite Bicycle BK Owner's manual 7 pages, 2. Elite Bicycle Ronda Sport User manual manual 36 pages. ElliptiGO Bicycle Owner's manual 55 pages. EMC Electric Bicycle. Emmo Kingston The Urban. Energy Suspension Bicycle. Energy Suspension Bicycle Bicycle Installation instructions 1 pages, 0. Enzo eBike enzo Enzo eBike Bicycle enzo Owner's manual 22 pages.

Epic Bicycle Epic Owner's manual 14 pages, 0. Eurotrike Girlz Talk. Eurotrike Bicycle Girlz Talk Owner's manual 3 pages. Eurotrike Bicycle Lowrider Owner's manual 3 pages. EV4 Bicycle Bike Battery installing manual 6 pages. EV Depot Crystalyte. Evelo Bicycle Aries Owner's manual 25 pages. Evelo Bicycle Compass Owner's manual 28 pages. Evelo Bicycle Delta Owner's manual 24 pages. Evelo Bicycle Luna Owner's manual 25 pages. Evelo Bicycle Orion Owner's manual 25 pages.

Evinci Infinity Series. Evo Bicycle Bicycle Owner's manual 28 pages. Ezi Rider Bicycle Vantage Quick start manual 2 pages. Faraday Bicycle Owner's manual 43 pages. Felt Bicycle AR Owner's manual 59 pages. Felt Bicycle BruHaul Owner's manual 14 pages.

Felt Compulsion Series. Felt Bicycle Compulsion Series Technical manual 19 pages. Felt Bicycle Edict Nine Manual manual 12 pages. Fezzari Bicycle Simbi Manual 37 pages. FiField Electric Bicycle. FiField Premiere series. FiField Bicycle Premiere series Owner's manual 22 pages. FiField Rogue Wave Fisher-Price Bicycle Instruction sheet 12 pages, 1. Fisher-Price Bicycle B Instructions manual 6 pages, 0. Fisher-Price Bicycle K Assembly manual 8 pages. Flyer Bicycle E-Bike Operating instructions manual 39 pages.

Flykly Bicycle Smart Bike Manual 21 pages. Focus fast pedelec. Focus Bikes Bicycle bicycle Owner's manual 36 pages. Foes Bicycle Shaver 29 Owner's manual 8 pages. Foes Racing F Foes Racing Bicycle F Owner's manual 8 pages. Foes Racing Shaver Foes Racing Bicycle Shaver Owner's manual 8 pages. Fraser Bicycle LS3 Assembly instructions manual 22 pages. Freedom Bicycle E-Bikes Owner's manual 8 pages. Freedom Concepts AS Freedom Concepts AS K.

Freedom Concepts AS N. Freedom Concepts ASR Freedom Concepts DCP Freedom Concepts DCP Fresh Breeze X-Wing Evo. Fuji Bikes Carbon Team Int'l. Fusion Bikes Extreme I. Fusion Bikes KinetiK Fusion Bikes Extreme II. Fusion Bikes Symmetry. Fusion Bikes Bicycle Symmetry Assembly manual 12 pages. Fusion Bikes Vintage. Gary Fisher Bicycle Cronos Service information 27 pages, 1. Gasbike Ghost Racer. Gasbike Bicycle Ghost Racer Users manual and owner's manual 31 pages.

Gazelle Chamonix S Gazelle Easy Glider. Gazelle Innergy Series. Gazelle Orange Pure Innergy. Gehring Group Adventurer. The tools for removing a freewheel and a cassette depend on the manufacturer of the part that is fitted to the bike. However, if you are in any doubt Remove the quick-release skewer from about which tool you need, take the wheel 1 the rear wheel. This holds the cassette, while the remover unlocks the lockring. If they do not, you must put individual sprockets back in a certain way.

Usually, lockring starts turning. Put the spanner on the flats of the block Check the integral freewheel mechanism, 2 remover and turn anticlockwise. Chainsets are attached in one of four ways.

Those held in place by a hexagonal bolt can be removed with a chainset socket spanner see Step 1. Chainsets with a self- removing Allen bolt can be detached with an 8mm Allen key see Step 2.

Versions with a standard Allen bolt can be detached with the relevant Allen key see Step 3. Those on a hollow-axle bottom bracket can be removed by reversing the steps on pp.

When refitting a chainset, keep grease or Detach a hexagonal chainset bolt from oil from touching the axle. The chainset must 1 the axle with a chainset socket spanner. After refitting, go for a short ride and then try the axle bolt again. Work from below the chainset so that if your hand or the spanner slips, the chainring teeth will not injure you. Make sure that the washer beneath the bolt has also been removed. These kinds of bolt 3 an Allen bolt holding the chainset on your extract the chainset as you unscrew them.

Usually, an 8mm key is the size required. Work from below slip the chainring teeth will not injure you. Remove the chainring 5 with a 5mm Allen key on one side and a chainring bolt peg spanner to hold the bolt on the other. You can do this without taking the chainset off the axle, but you must remove it if you are working on the inner rings of some triple chainsets.

Standard chainring bolts are made from steel. Be especially careful not to over-tighten aluminium or titanium bolts. Both use sealed bearings, which can wear out over time. If this happens on the cartridge version, replace the whole unit, but on a hollow-axle type you only need to replace the bearings. Each type of bracket consists of an axle, two bearings, and two threaded cups called either the free cup and fixed cup, or the non-drive and drive-side cup.

With the cartridge type, both cranks bolt onto the axle, but with the hollow-axle type, the drive- Providing strength side crank is fixed to the axle and only the non-drive side The axle and bearings of crank can be bolted on. A third type of bottom bracket, the bottom bracket need to the BMX bracket, has a threaded axle — the bracket is be both strong and reliable held in place by a locknut that screws on to the thread enough to bear the weight on the non-drive side of the axle.

The cartridge bearings are located close to each end of the bottom-bracket axle. A tubular sleeve fits over the two bearings, filling the space between them. The fixed and free cups fit over this sleeve to create a Free cup totally sealed unit.

The non-drive side crank slides onto the axle and is secured by two pinch bolts. The crank cap bolt inserts into the end of the axle to hold Pinch bolts the crank against the Hold crank bearing, ensuring that in place on there is no play, rather the axle like the stem cap bolt on a threadless headset p. Their bearings are sealed from the elements — even from the water you use for hosing or pressure-washing your bike, provided that you turn the pedals forwards during the wash.

When the bearings do eventually wear out you will have to replace the whole unit. The remover tools for this job are specific to each particular bottom bracket, so check which make is fitted to your bike before buying the tools. If you are planning a replacement, there are three types of bottom bracket axle to Put the bike on a workstand and remove choose: square-tapered, Shimano Octalink, 1 the chainset see pp. You need to do Finally, if you are having any problems this because different chainsets are designed to installing a bottom bracket on your bike, work with different axle lengths.

The non-drive threads are sometimes referred to as Non-drive Bottom-bracket axle free-cup the free-cup and the drive-side threads are known side as the fixed cup. Do not grease the drive side of a bottom bracket with Italian threads. This width determines the remover anticlockwise with a spanner. Turn it anticlockwise if your bike has an Italian- threaded bottom bracket marked 36 x 1. Insert the bottom bracket from the drive 5 fixed-cup side using the remover tool.

Fit the teeth of the tool into the indentations of the bottom bracket see enlargement. Use the remover to screw it in a few turns.

Fully tighten the drive side, then the non-drive side. The bearings on which the axle runs screw onto the outside of the bottom bracket shell, which allows a large diameter axle to be used that is hollow, light, and stronger than other axles. Since the bearings are further apart than on other types of bottom bracket, they encounter less torque, which increases their lifespan. However, they will still eventually wear and have to be replaced, so you will need to know how to remove and replace them.

You will also need to follow these steps if you want to upgrade to this system. The faces of the bottom bracket shell must 1 be flat and parallel. This requires specialist equipment, so get the frame checked at a bike shop. To do this, match the wide notch on the axle with the wide tooth on the crank.

Put a little grease on the axle before you fit the crank. Hollow-axle bottom bracket 75 Screw the cups into the frame as far as you Hold the drive side right-hand crank 2 can with your fingers inset. Grease the threads of the crank cap bolt, Tighten the crank pinch bolts with an 5 and screw it into place with your fingers.

Rotate the cranks and if the axle is stiff, loosen the crank the same amount. Repeat until both bolts are cap bolt a little. The biggest difference between this kind of BMX bracket and normal bottom brackets is that the threads securing it in the frame are on the axle and not inside the bottom- bracket shell. The axle has a cup and cone bearing system, a little like an open-bearing hub see pp. The drive-side cone, chainring, and axle are made in one piece, and the cranks bolt on to them.

This kind of chainset and bottom bracket is called a Take out the captive bolt at the centre of 3-piece chainset. Screwing the locknut on 1 the non-drive side crank, then loosen the crank bolt on the side. Hold the non-drive Take out the drive side of the bottom 2 cone still with a peg spanner while 3 bracket once you have removed the locknut removing the locknut with a spanner. Replace any located inside the bottom-bracket shell. Replace any worn cups or cones.

Put the non-drive cone and spacer over Put the spacer back on the non-drive 5 the axle and screw the cone on to the 6 side of the axle and then push the crank bearings with the peg spanner. Screw the locknut back on to it. Then screw the cone back a little to the locknut. A bit of play in the axle is permissible, but too much will throw off the chain.

Pedals with open bearings require regular inspection and lubrication. Clipless pedals must be lubricated to ensure easy foot release. They The body of a pedal rotates around an axle are the first step in the process of converting and is supported on bearings that are either human energy into open or held within a cartridge.

For example, studs that prevent foot slippage will help a rider who makes frequent stops, such as a commuter in heavy traffic. Some flat pedals are fitted with toe-clips and straps that hold the front of the foot, although they can interfere with the foot as the rider tries to remove it.

Clipless pedals hold the foot securely, while releasing it easily whenever the rider wants. A knurled Pedal body retainer attaches the pedal body Rotates on to the axle. The cone the axle not visible and the lockring can be Locknut Holds the adjusted to permit the free cone in place rotation of the body around the axle, without any play. The tools to remove the axles are specific to the make of the pedals, and will be either supplied with the pedals or available at a good bike shop.

Most pedals contain two bearings on which the pedal body revolves around its axle. These sometimes need replacing; in the case of ball-bearings, they need regular cleaning, checking, and greasing.

Place a spanner on the flats of the axle to Pedal axles can be damaged by an impact 1 remove a pedal. Release tension If the axle is bent, it will need replacing. The retainer may be damaged if you do not. Hold the cone with one spanner and remove Grease the inner bearing to prolong its 5 the locknut with another.

The cone and 6 life. If it is worn, the whole axle assembly locknut hold the bearings on the end of the axle. To reassemble the pedal, repeat Steps 1—4 in reverse order. Then lock the cone with the locknut. The mechanism lets the foot pivot They hold the foot to the pedal by locking around its long axis during each revolution. The mechanism that holds the cleat to keep the mechanism working well.

They need according to how much movement your to engage and release the feet with equal feet make during pedalling. Time road pedal Top face These pedals offer a range of movement that Bottom face can be adjusted to suit Pedal body the requirements of individual riders. Keep them well maintained by scrubbing regularly with degreaser, using a stiff Retention brush.

Wash this off, mechanism then lubricate the release Release spring spring with heavier oil, dribbling it from a can. Top face Look road pedal A small Allen bolt in the Pedal body centre of these easy-to- maintain pedals alters the degree to which the foot can pivot when pedalling. Every Pivot adjuster now and then, dribble Back plate oil between the back Release plate and body. Time off-road pedal The few moving parts Top face of this simple pedal are Release bar protected in the body of the pedal.

Keep the parts clean and dribble a little heavy oil into the point where the release bar Bottom face enters the pedal body. If necessary, replace the bearings and axles see pp. Clean and degrease the pedals regularly and lubricate the moving parts with a heavy lubricant.

The Release tension release tension adjuster is adjuster Retention mechanism on the back plate of this double-sided pedal. Crank Brothers pedal Plan view This is an open design with excellent mud clearance and very few moving parts — the Threads Release bar retention mechanism Profile view is just a simple spring. Clean the pedals regularly, Retention Pedal axle mechanism and very occasionally re-grease the bearings using a grease gun and a special adaptor that is sold with the pedals.

The right position also enables you to transfer the maximum amount of leg power into the pedals. Once you have set up the cleats, you might find that your feet try to return to their natural position as you ride. However, do not alter its fore and aft position because the position shown here is the most efficient for applying power to the pedals. The steps in this sequence show an off- road pedal see pp.

This point is usually slightly behind the smallest toe and is in line with the ball of the foot. Some cleats sole of your shoe, from outside to inside. This line are marked to help with this alignment. Adjust the cleats to accommodate any foot Seal the Allen heads on the bolts that 5 position changes your test ride reveals, but 6 secure the cleats to off-road shoes.

These keep the cleat centre over the axle. Tighten the cleat. Regularly check and maintain the headset, handlebar, wheels, and hubs to safeguard their reliability at all times. The headset must be properly adjusted to allow smooth, safe steering and to prolong its life. The bearings and bearing surfaces need regular inspection and lubrication and anything that is worn must be replaced at once.

How they work The main function of the headset is to enable the rider to change the direction of the front wheel under any conditions. There are two types of headset, threaded and threadless, and both hold the front fork securely in the head tube, while simultaneously allowing the fork to turn freely.

The headset rotates on bearings, which are held in place by cups, one above the head tube, the other below. For the forks to turn freely, these two cups press on the bearings just enough to prevent any play in the part of the fork known as the steerer tube.

The way this pressure also known as load is achieved varies between the threaded and threadless headsets. Some steerer tube types of threadless upwards headset contain a wedge instead of a star washer. When the bolt is turned Stem Links handlebar and headset with an Allen key, it pushes the stem and Spacer spacer down on to the Sits on top of the bearings Top cup bearings in the top and Loads the Top bearings bottom cups, and pulls bearings Allow the steerer tube to up the steerer tube.

The turn in the headset Bottom cup bottom cup covers the Loads the Steerer tube bearings that sit on the bearings Connects the fork fork crown race at the to the headset top of the fork crown. Bottom As a result, sufficient bearings load is placed on both Allow the bearings to enable the fork to turn front fork to turn freely Fork crown but without play.

The cup, and consequently the front fork, is then locked in place by a lockring that also screws down the threaded steerer. Stem Links the handlebar and headset Quill Expander bolt Fits inside the Draws up the wedge threaded steerer Lockring Locks the top cup in place Top bearings Allow the steerer to turn in the Top cup headset Loads the Handlebar bearings Wedge Steers the front Threaded steerer Jams the quill in wheel Connects the the steerer headset to Bottom bearings the fork Headset Allow the fork Holds the to turn fork in the head tube Fork Holds and turns the front wheel Steering effectively A headset allows the rider to steer the front wheel effectively and confidently.

The handlebar, which is connected to the steerer tube by the stem, turns the fork and the front wheel. If you can see bolts on the side of the part that sits on top of the head tube, it is a threadless headset. A number of different types of threadless headset can be fitted to modern bikes. These range from the type that has both top and bottom cups, like the traditional headset, to others, such as the headset illustrated here, where the bearing surfaces fit inside the head tube.

All the various types of headset work on the same principle and are taken apart in a similar way. Occasionally, you need to strip down the Remove the stem cap bolt from the centre headset in order to check it for wear and to 1 of the stem cap with an Allen key. This bolt clean and lubricate the bearings. If you find loads the headset to prevent play in it, rather any cups or bearing surfaces are worn, you than securing the stem. This job requires specialist equipment and is best left to the experts in a good bike shop.

If there are no signs of wear, grease the bearing. Examine for wear, put new grease on the bearings and re-install.

Threadless headset 91 Loosen the clamp bolts on the side of the Take hold of the front fork, then lift the 2 stem once you have removed the cap bolt.

You The stem and handlebar assembly are now free. Put the fork back into the head tube 5 and replace the centring wedge, bearing cover, and spacers. Secure the stem in place by tightening the clamp bolts.

This type of headset is designed to make it easy to raise and lower the stem whenever you want to change the height of the handlebar and adjust your riding position. The stem is equipped with a shaft, or quill, that fits inside the steerer. For safety reasons, you should never raise a stem above the limit marked on its quill. On some even older headsets the top cup screws down. Its serrated top edge is held in place by a clamp bolt on a similarly serrated Undo the Allen bolt in the stem centre and lockring assembly.

When the clamp bolt is 1 knock it downwards with a plastic mallet loosened, the top cup screws off. The stem is secured into the Remember to disconnect the brakes steerer by an expander bolt which, as it is before you start working on the headset tightened, draws a wedge up inside the quill.

Before the stem is replaced into the steerer of the headset, coat the quill with grease see pp. You can access the top bearings by pushing the fork Bottom cup up the head tube and holding it there. Screwing the top cup upwards allows this to happen. Some headsets have roller bearings — upwards from the steerer. Grease both the top and bottom bearings Screw the top cup down on to the top 5 or set loose bearings in grease inside each cup.

Replace the spacers and locknut. Bearings held in cages can be greased in situ so long as they are not worn out.

A rider must be able to rely totally on the handlebar, so for safety reasons, a handlebar must be replaced at once if scratches, stress marks, or cracks develop on the surface.

Some cyclists want to replace a drop handlebar with a straight, or flat, bar. Others may want to replace their existing straight bars with riser bars, or vice versa.

Riser bars, which are fitted to mountain bikes, are straight in the centre, then rise up to become straight where the grips are. They are fitted the same way as a straight handlebar. Fitting a straight The steps in this sequence apply to all handlebar straight handlebars, whatever the reason for replacing them. However, when replacing a drop handlebar with a straight bar, it will necessary to swap the brake levers for levers that work with flat or riser bars.

Some of these steps will also be useful when fitting new grips, brake levers, gear-shifters, or bar-ends to an existing handlebar. Parts of a straight handlebar Plastic plug Grip Straight handlebar Ring clamp Remove any raised bit of metal inside the 1 stem clamp with a medium, half-round file inset.

Smooth the area with emery paper. Check that the bar Toolbox is centred before tightening it fully. Straight handlebar 95 Secure the ring clamp of the brake lever Spray hairspray into the handlebar grips to 2 to the handlebar.

Like road brake levers, 3 help the grips to slide on to the handlebar. Some off-road to the handlebars. However, some are separate so there are two clamps to go over the handlebar. Slide the grips on to the handlebar while Clamp on the bar-ends. Line them up 4 they are still wet with hairspray.

A drop handlebar must be replaced immediately if any cracks develop on its surface. The steps in this sequence will show how to replace a drop handlebar and how to fit, and therefore how to re-position, brake levers. Cyclists with larger hands and long Use a medium, half-round file to remove arms may prefer to mount the levers lower 1 any raised areas of metal inside the part down the handlebar than the ideal position of the stem that clamps the bar in place.

These shown here. Pull the lever hood cover forwards to access Brake the bolt. The bolt on Shimano levers is further lever hood Rubber cover Brake lever down the outer side of the lever hood so that you need to put your Allen key into a recess Toolbox under the rubber cover. Before you secure the bolts, 3 the handlebar. This ring clamps the lever try to line up the flat part of the bottom of the to the handlebar.

Pull the cover of the 6 brake lever hood forwards and place a short length of tape over each steel ring. When you reach the top of the handlebar, secure the tape with insulating tape. Start taping at one end of 5 the handlebar. The cones and bearings of open-bearing hubs must be lubricated regularly and adjusted to let the hubs spin freely, with little play. The bearings in both types need regular checking and replacing when worn.

How they work The hub allows the wheel to revolve. The axle remains static part of an efficient bike. Their while the hub body spins around on bearings. The gears on a bike are located on the rear hub, either as a hub-gear unit or as multiple sprockets in the case of derailleur gears.

The freewheel mechanism, which is also on the rear hub, allows a rider to cease pedalling while the bike is in motion — for example, on a downhill stretch of road.

This mechanism is part of the hub in both hub gears and hubs with cassette sprockets. When the hub is assembled, the bearings sit in the hub body, just to the outside of the flanges, with the axle running through them. Lockrings ensure that everything is held in place. Each set of bearings is held in place by a cone not visible that is screwed down on the thread at the end of the axle. A locknut not visible locks the cone in place on the same thread.

If the hub is held by a quick-release mechanism, the axle is hollow to allow the quick- release skewer to go through it. The open-bearing hubs require much more maintenance than the cartridge type see pp. As a result, the ability to strip down and service an open-bearing hub is a skill that can be used repeatedly.

The following steps will help you to remove an axle and a freehub, as well as regrease and retighten the bearings. They can be applied to a Shimano front or rear hub and a Campagnolo front hub. However, leave servicing a Campagnolo rear hub to the experts at a bike shop because it Remove the locknut on the drive side with requires specialist tools.

Some locknuts can be need to remove the cassette by following removed with an ordinary spanner, others with the steps on pp. Open-bearing hub Pull the axle out from the non-drive side. Insert an Allen key into the 8mm or 2 Be careful not to dislodge any of the ball- 3 10mm Allen bolt located in the centre bearings as you do so. This bolt holds the freehub body on to the axle.

You may need a bit of force to loosen irregular motion. Replace damaged cones or bent this bolt so use an Allen key with a long handle axles immediately. Fit the new hub body or 5 the cleaned old one by reversing Step 3.

However, unlike many cartridge bottom brackets, you can change bearings when they wear out. Replacing the bearings is a straightforward task that requires special drifts to drive out the old bearings and drive in the new. Check the bearings by removing the wheel from the bike and spinning it while holding the axle. If you feel any roughness the bearings are worn. Excessive play of the hub on the axle is also a sign of wear. Only the hub is shown in these steps, but Remove the seals from each side of the you will deal with the whole wheel.

You can 1 hub axle. Some seals are retained by a also follow these steps to replace a bent or lockring that is secured with a grub screw; broken axle — although rare, it can happen if others just require prising off. Do this from behind the bearing, by a drift. This is a metal cylinder with the same tapping the drift from the same side of the hub diameter as the centre of the cartridge bearing.

Push the second bearing on to the axle, Lower the hub down on to the axle. Make 5 then place the drift on to a flat surface, 6 sure that the axle is through the middle of such as the flat portion of the vice. If you are not the bearing you have already fixed inside the hub.

The surface must axle goes all the way into the bearing. The grooves on the seals fully into the bearing. The tyres are the component that make contact with the ground. Match the tyres on your bike to the prevailing riding conditions and always be ready to replace worn-out tyres.

The steps are for wheels with quick- release levers that secure them in the drop- outs the recess in the frame into which the axle fits. For bikes with axle nuts, loosening and tightening with a spanner corresponds to 1 2 3 1 2 unlocking and locking the quick-release lever. Check levers are locked before each ride, and during a ride if disc brakes are fitted.

The rim brake needs to be released on the wheel being removed. For V-brakes, unhook the cable from its cradle; for cantilevers unhook the straddle wire from the left brake arm; for callipers, use the quick-release lever. Parts of the quick-release system Fork Quick-release lever Quick-release body Wheel drop-out Release the brake, shift the chain on to 1 the smallest sprocket and pull the quick- release lever away from the bike into the unlocked position.

Some quick-release levers are shaped so that they bend towards the frame when in the Toolbox locked position. Quick-release wheels Removing a front wheel Release the brake. Pull the quick-release Lift up the bike to allow the wheel to drop 1 lever to the unlocked position.

If the 2 out of the fork. Hook the chain out of the way and on to Replace the wheel by introducing the hub 2 the peg situated on the inner side of the 3 axle to the drop-outs. Reconnect the brake. At home, you can repair the punctured tube with adhesive and a patch. It is still a good idea to carry a repair kit on every ride, because you might be unlucky enough to get a second puncture and be forced to repair the tube outdoors. The main point to remember about mending a puncture is not to rush any of the stages.

If you patiently give the glue time to dry, closely examine the inside of the tyre, and carefully refit the tube, then you will be rewarded with a successful repair.

Take the wheel out of the bike. Place one If you miss anything or trap the inner tube, 1 tyre lever under the tyre bead and lift it off you may get another puncture. Hook this lever around one of the spokes.

Push the second lever forwards and run it around the whole circumference of the rim to remove one side of the tyre.

Locate the hole, mark 3 some chalk over the patch to prevent excess it with a crayon, and let the air out of the tube. Allow time for it to become tacky. Press the patch firmly on to the adhesive for over a minute. Make sure that the edges are flat. Put one side of the tyre fully 5 back on to the rim.

Slightly inflate the tube, insert the valve into the hole in the rim, and then work the tube back inside the tyre.

Work the tyre back around the rim. To do this, pinch the tyre together and look around the whole circumference of the wheel. However, replacing multiple spokes, replacing spokes in non-standard wheels, and truing a wheel that has been buckled by some kind of impact are jobs that are best left to the experts in a good bike repair shop. It is essential to true the wheel after replacing a broken spoke because the wheel rim is kept straight by the combined pull of all the spokes acting on it.

If one spoke breaks, its pull is missed and the rim as a whole goes out of line. Remove the wheel and take off the tyre A wheel jig is needed to true a wheel 1 and inner tube. If the break occurred in another place, the new spoke until it reaches the same measure the two pieces to get the right length. For the 4 first few turns you can use your fingers. If it is not laced properly, tensioning the Toolbox spoke in Steps 5 and 6 could damage the wheel.

To do this, look at nipple on to the new spoke. Put the wheel into a wheel jig and take Use small, measured turns of the spoke 5 up the remaining slack on the spoke nipple 6 key to tension the spoke. Repeat and check each quarter turn until the rim is straight. Pads must be checked to ensure that they contact the rim fully and at the same time, and replaced when they are worn. Brake cables must be checked and lubricated regularly. How they work The three most common types of rim brake, V-brake, cantilever, and calliper, work in a similar way.

A lever pulls a cable, which causes the two brake arms to move towards each other simultaneously. This action brings Braking safely the two pads into contact with the braking surface of Rim brakes must be set up the wheel rim. Springs cause the arms to move back properly and maintained to when the lever is released. The inner cable in are to work effectively and a V-brake and calliper pulls one arm, while the outer, safely on any surface and in in resisting this pull, effectively pushes the other arm.

The two arms pivot around the arm by a cable-clamp bolt. When pulled, the brake bosses, pushing the brake pads against cable pulls this arm towards the rim. At the the braking surface on the rim. As it leaves the lever, the brake cable runs inside a cable outer, which sits in a barrel adjuster. This barrel adjuster allows the brake travel to be fine-tuned.

For a heavily used bike, change the brake cables every two months; for a bike ridden lightly two or three times a week, change the brake cables once a year. The steps in this sequence are performed on the back brake.

Replacing a cable on the front brake follows the same principles, but there are no cable guides to thread through. Brake levers that fit a drop handlebar require a brake cable with a pear nipple. Always keep a new cable in the toolbox Loosen the cable-clamp bolt on the brake or workshop as a spare. A rear cable can be 1 calliper. Remove the old cable by pulling its nipple from the lever hood with long-nosed pliers.

When you apply the Brake brake, ferrules prevent the cable outers from being cable pulled through the cable guides on the frame. Put a little oil on the end of the ferrule to help it slide into place and wipe off any excess. Measure the old outer and cut the new one to the same length. Thread the cable through the first length Pull the cable through the cable-clamp 5 of cable outer and the first cable guide.

Do not file more than you have to. They also need replacing if they start fraying and become worn. The hybrid bike in this sequence has V-brakes, but some mountain bikes are equipped with cantilever brakes. Fitting cables is similar for both. Brake cables also require regular cleaning and lubricating, especially if the bike has been ridden consistently in wet weather.

All brake levers that fit on to a straight or riser handlebar require a cable with a barrel nipple. Regardless of the manufacturer, the barrel Undo the cable-clamp bolt on the brake. Remember to use ferrules on both ends from inside the brake lever by pulling it out of every length of new outer cable.



at

No comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)

Adobe audition cc latency free download

Looking for: Adobe audition cc latency free download.Adobe audition 32bit .zip  Click here to DOWNLOAD       Adobe audition cc latency fr...